all of what Dick Metcalf had to say about CorrosionX in his "Worth A Look"
column in Shooting Times:
I sometimes think
there are more different kinds of firearms lubes and rust-prevention compounds
on the market these days than there are guns. However, I have recently become
a believer in one particular item and have begun using it exclusively. The
product is CorrosionX.
As a corrosion inhibitor, CorrosionX polar bonds to metal (water beads on
it like car wax), prevents rust from starting even with extended exposure
to rain, and withstands extreme handling abuse. It repels moisture with the
thinnest of coats. I've rubbed hard with a salt-sweaty thumb on a barrel
wiped down with CorrosionX and moisture still beads. And its polar-bonding
effect works to prevent existing rust from progressing - spray it on a gun
where rust specks have already begun, and it'll stop it cold.
As a lubricant, CorrosionX offers a lower coefficient of friction than even
PTFE-fortified products ( the Teflon, semiteflon, and other polymer-bead
compounds). Plus, since it's specifically designed for high-temperature(s),
it doesn't burn off or sublimate away during hot-action use. I recently used
it to lube the yoke/crane cylinder-rotation shafts of two .357 Magnum revolvers
during a 10,000-round endurance review, where 500-round strings were standard.
CorrosionX worked longer and better than anything I've used before. The
cylinder/yoke areas would get too hot to touch, but the lube did not dry
up and was visibly still "moist" when I pulled off the cylinder.
As a penetrating agent, CorrosionX is remarkable. The manufacturer reports
incidents where its application has freed the frozen actions of guns that
have laid for weeks in the soaking ruins of building fires. That's pretty
Here's more from Chris Christian's GUN WORLD article on CorrosionX:
Unfortunately, .22 rimfire semi-auto pistols happen to be one of the more
difficult firearm designs to keep functioning in a reliable manner. And the
same also applies to semi-auto rimfire rifles. There are two major reasons
for this, and they really aren't the fault of the gun.
The first is that the .22 Long Rifle cartridge (regardless of who makes it,
or how much it costs) is an inherently dirty little rascal. It tends to spew
a significant amount of lead and powder residue every time the trigger is
The second is that the rimfire semi-auto action is rather small and confined.
It doesn't leave a lot of room for this debris to settle in, nor can it be
blown out of the action as is the case with centerfire semi-autos
Crud tends to accumulate in a .22 rimfire, and when enough of this crud
accumulates, the gun tends to stop shooting. That's not a good thing to happen,
especially in the middle of a match, or if you have just figured out the
lead and sight picture on a rapidly-vanishing varmint.
You can compound that problem quickly if you use the wrong lubricant for
the gun. Some otherwise outstanding oils and lubes tend to hold powder and
lead residue, which builds up quickly and leads to failure in as few as 50
to 100 rounds. Other lubes, like Rem Oil or Tetra Gun, do not allow firing
residue to cling as tightly; if my Ruger was properly cleaned and then lubed
with these, I could expect as many as 300 rounds ,give or take, before the
gun decided to take an extended break in the middle of the action.
I believe I have found a better lube than that. CorrosionX is a relatively
new product using some very high-tech ingredients. Those components surface
bond with metal, form a self-healing shield and resist wearing extremely
To find out how CorrosionX might work with rimfires, I took my Ruger Mark
II target handgun, stripped it, hosed it with carb cleaner and thoroughly
spray-lubed it with CorrosionX. I then took a fresh 500-round brick of CCI
Green Tag (an excellent performing match load, but an outside lead-lubricated
round of the type that causes the most sludge build up in many .22 rimfires)
and began firing them. This was not a torture test ... I engaged in normal
precision practice (30 to 50 rounds per session, twice a week) for the next
The only maintenance on the gun during the six-week period was to: (1) wipe
the breech face with a clean patch after each shooting session, and (2) run
one dry patch through the bore every 100 rounds. No additional lubrication,
internally or externally, was provided during the six-week period.
After 10 years of shooting this gun in competition, I have found that the
very best lubricants would allow 300 to 400 rounds of reliable functioning
before lubrication-related malfunctions began to occur.
I finished the 500-round brick of Green Tag without a single lubrication-related
malfunction. At the end of that brick, the gun was still purring right along;
I had a match the following weekend, however, so I terminated the test and
cleaned and lubed the gun. I do not know how far I would have been able to
push that gun, but after 500 rounds of lead match ammo, the action was quite
clean and the gun was still running smoothly.
CorrosionX, obviously, does not trap firing residue within the gun. It is
superior to any other lubricant I have ever used for .22-rimfire actions.
In fact, I was pretty much astonished at its performance!
As a plus, CorrosionX does marvelous things to the rust that seems to grow
on my guns. My hands will rust just about any metal they come in contact
with, and every handgun I own wears a slight patina of rust on the front
and back of the grips. During the initial cleaning of the Ruger Mark II,
(blue steel) pistol, the CorrosionX removed the patina from the grip area.
And, despite the fact that I applied no more lubricant during the entire
six-week test even in the humid Florida climate I live in the patina never
returned. CorrosionX stopped that. And, it stopped it on my other blue steel
guns, as well. This is, without a doubt, the best surface metal protectant
I have ever used!
2001 Corrosion Technologies Corporation
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